Tag: stitches

Create a beautiful custom bed caddy using your Brother sewing machine and a few Brother accessories. Quilt your own fabrics for a lightly padded finish that will match your décor and unique style. This handy craft will help organize bedside items you reach for on a regular basis. Pick some pretty fabrics, gather up your tools, and prepare to tackle this easy sewing project. You’ll learn more about the use of several optional accessory feet featured in these instructions. Are you ready? Let’s go sew!

Materials and Supplies:

• Brother sewing machine with basic built-in stitches.
• SA190 Roller Foot for attaching gripper material to bed caddy.
• Additional accessory feet for this project, optional but very helpful:
• SA184 Edge Joining Foot
• SA160 Stitch Guide Foot
• SA132 Quilting Guide
• Basic notions, including thread to match or blend with fabrics and a removable marker. I recommend a rotary cutter, mat, and ruler for cutting fabric pieces.

• Materials for bed caddy, including fabric, thin fusible craft fleece, and gripper material:
  • Cut one piece of quilt weight cotton measuring 15-inches wide X 26-inches long for base of bed caddy. Fuse thin craft fleece to wrong side.
  • Cut one piece of quilt weight cotton measuring 15-inches wide X 11-inches long for large pocket. Fuse thin craft fleece to wrong side.
  • Cut one piece of quilt weight cotton measuring 15-inches wide X 14-inches long for small folded pocket. Note: Fold pocket piece in half lengthwise and press to form a fold line. Next, fuse thin craft fleece measuring 15-inches wide X 7-inches long to wrong side, matching fleece with fold line and raw edges on half the piece.
  • Cut one piece of quilt weight cotton measuring 15-inches wide X 26-inches long for bed caddy lining.
  • Cut one piece of quilt weight cotton measuring 15-inches wide X 11-inches long for large pocket lining.
  • Cut one piece of quilt weight cotton measuring 15-inches wide X 2-inches long for large pocket trim.
  • Cut one piece of non-slip “gripper” material measuring 13-inches wide X 9-inches long for top edge.

See all pieces in Figure #1a and Figure #1b.

Fabric tips: Choose two or more coordinating fabrics, mixing and matching as desired. You can eliminate the large pocket trim piece if you choose a third coordinating fabric. I used remnants left over from another project for this bed caddy. Since I only had two fabric prints to work with, I added the trim strip for extra contrast on the pocket.

Tips for using accessory feet listed with supplies:

• SA190 Roller Foot – The non-stick and roller capabilities on this foot are ideal for stitching “sticky” materials such as the gripper material on the top edge of the bed caddy. In this project you’ll see that I also used the roller foot to quilt single layers of fabric with thin fleece. Note that there are other feet better suited for quilting thicker layers.
• SA160 Stitch Guide Foot – Marked lines on this foot allow for consistent stitching of seamlines in a wide range of widths.
• SA132 Quilting Guide – The quilting guide fits snugly into the small hole found in the back of the presser foot holder so it can be used with any foot you choose. Simply slide the guide a measured distance from the needle and line up the guide with a previous line of stitching for consistent and evenly spaced lines of stitching.

Finished bed caddy measures approximately 14-inches wide X 25-inches long. Please read through all instructions before beginning this project.

Basic steps for creating bed caddy:

• Add fusible fleece to caddy pieces.
• Add trim, then quilt caddy base and pocket pieces.
• Layer pieces and add lining.
• Attach gripper material to top edge to finish. Note: This piece helps keep the caddy from moving when placed between the mattress and box springs.

1. Prepare large pocket if you are adding the contrast trim. Add contrast strip as follows:

• Attach stitch guide foot. Layer 15-inch wide X 2-inch long strip along top edge of large pocket, with right sides together, placing it a scant 1-inch from top raw edge. See Figure #2a.

• Sew strip to top edge using a 1/2-inch seam allowance, following a specific line on the foot. See line spaced ½-inch from needle position in Figure #2b.

• Flip strip so right side faces up and press toward top edge.

2. Prepare to quilt pieces backed with fleece as follows:

Mark starting lines along lengthwise and cross wise center on 15-inches wide X 26-inches long base piece and 15-inches wide X 11-inches long large pocket piece. Mark a lengthwise line on the center of folded pocket piece. Note: This smaller piece doesn’t require quilting in both directions. I used the fabric print to space lines on my small pocket. See example of marked lines on the large pocket piece in the enhanced photo in Figure #3.

Attach the roller foot if you have it and quilt all pieces, stitching evenly spaced lengthwise and crosswise lines.

Tips for Quilting Stitches: Stitch the first center line and then use the quilt guide set for evenly spaced remaining lines to the left and right of the first center line. I like to stitch all my vertical lines first and then turn the fabric to stitch horizontal lines. Fusible fleece does not require closely spaced lines. I spaced mine 1 ½-inches apart. Straight stitches are traditionally used for this type of quilting. However, I chose the triple stretch straight stitch along with alternating lines of the rick-rack stitch. Stitch settings listed below:

Triple Stretch stitch: Center needle position, stitch length, 3.5mm.

Rick-Rack stitch: Width 1.5mm, length 4.0mm.

See examples of quilting in Figure #4a, Figure #4b, and Figure #4c.

3. Layer large pocket with matching lining piece. See Figure #5.

Sew top edge using a ½-inch seam allowance. Press lining to back side.

4. Layer bed caddy pieces as follows:

• Bed caddy base piece, right side facing up.
• Large pocket, right side facing up.
• Folded pocket, right side facing up.
• Bed caddy lining, wrong side facing up.

See layered pieces in Figure #6.

Sew layers together using a ½- seam allowance, leaving a 5-inch opening along the top edge for turning right side out. Tip: Use a small round object to mark off a slightly rounded stitching line for bottom corners. This gives a more attractive finish to the caddy and makes it easier to trim excess bulk.

Trim corners and lower rounded edges to reduce bulk. Turn caddy right side out, with lining on back side and quilted pieces positioned on the front side. Press carefully and close top by stitching close to edge.

 5. Center gripper material along edge opposite pockets. See Figure #7.

Sew to bed caddy using the non-stick roller foot. Tip: Make sure the entire foot is riding on the gripper fabric as you stitch. Sew slowly to keep material from shifting. See Figure #8.

You are finished! See completed bed caddy in Figure #9.

This article has been republished from Brother Sews USA.
The original article can be seen here: http://blog.brothersews.com/home-decor/quilted-bed-caddy/

This embroidery tutorial highlights the Brother monogramming foot, labeled with an “N.” The N foot is commonly found in the included accessories for many Brother machines. If you’re looking for a replacement, this foot would be listed as a part available from your Brother dealer.

The monogramming foot is designed for decorative stitching and for sewing out lettering and characters, (commonly known as monogramming) patterns in your machine. While there are some utility stitches mixed into the decorative menu, foot N is primarily for decorative patterns and stitches that do not lay totally flat on the fabric. See examples of various stitches from different Brother machine models in Figure #1a, Figure #1b, and Figure #1c.

Important Tips: Unless you are stitching stiff or firm fabric, you’ll likely have the best results when using foot J for utility stitches. If you select foot N in place of foot J, be sure to test your stitching on fabric scraps. Fabric should be well stabilized when stitching decorative and character stitches. Essentially, you are creating mini embroidery without a hoop. Be sure to test stitches on fabric scraps and add stabilizer as needed.

Below are features that make foot N ideal for stitching decorative patterns and characters.

• The N foot is a genuine Brother Accessory, made from quality materials and designed to use with patterns included in the Decorative and Character/Monogram menus of your Brother embroidery machine.
• This wide, snap on foot has a 7mm opening in the center.
• The clear view in the center provides excellent visibility.
• Designed with a deep groove on the bottom side, the monogramming foot slides easily over bulky decorative stitches.
• Use the monogram foot for satin stitching with a dense zigzag, and your stitches will flow smoothly under the deep groove on the foot.
• Dash lines on the foot show where stitching starts and can also be used as an alignment guide when pivoting a corner.

Notice the clear view in the center of the foot along with dash lines that show where the stitching starts. See Figure #2.

The deep groove extends from the front all the way to the back of the foot. See Figure #3.

Decorative sewing stitches on some Brother models fit within the 7mm opening on the foot. On other Brother models, you’ll find multi-directional stitches where the feed dogs move from side to side as well as front to back, forming large decorative patterns. The oversized base of sewing foot N helps keep the fabric flat and secure while these large stitches form on the fabric. See examples of 7mm stitches in pink and large, and larger multi-directional decorative patterns in purple in Figure #4.

Now that you know more about your Brother N monogramming foot, experiment with the wide variety of decorative patterns and character stitches built-in to your machine. Have fun sewing with presser foot N! See Figure #5.

This article has been republished from Brother Sews USA.
The original article can be seen here: http://blog.brothersews.com/accessory/accessory-spotlight-n-foot/

With Spring just around the corner, I thought I’d share how to sew a fabric Easter basket. These homemade Easter baskets aren’t just for Easter though – they make great gifts for all different occasions, holidays, and themes! I sew these DIY fabric baskets for everything from baby showers to teachers’ gifts and more. Add machine embroidery for a nice custom touch. Use these homemade fabric baskets for custom storage bins as well! Get the tutorial below on how to sew your very own fabric Easter basket.

Supplies:

• Brother A150
• Brother NV800E was used for the embroidery
• 1 yd. cotton fabric exterior
• 1 yd. cotton fabric liner
• 1-2 yds. fusible fleece
• General sewing/cutting supplies

Cutting:
Exterior: 2 pieces that measure 17” (wide) x  13” long
Liner:  2 pieces that measure 17 x 13”
Fusible Fleece: 4 pieces that measure 17 x 13”
Strap: 1 piece 17 x 6”
Fusible Fleece: 17 x 6”

For the 2 piece (Blue Checkered)
Exterior: Top section: 17 x 3 x  ¾”
Exterior: Bottom section:  17 x 10 ¼”
The rest of the pieces measure the same as above.

Fuse the fusible fleece to the wrong side of all pieces.

Use a grid ruler and mark off a 3” square at the bottom corners for both exterior and liner and cut.

Place exterior and liner pieces right sides together. Stitch the sides and bottoms with a 1/2” seam allowance.

For the corners: With right sides together, connect the seam so it’s centered to the other side and clip or pin.

Stitch together and repeat for all corners. (1/2” seam allowance).

The bottom should look like this when complete.

Now let’s sew the handle.

Fuse the fleece to the wrong side.

Fold the sides into the center and press.

Fold in half so the edges are together and press.

Top stitch down both sides (about 1/8” from the edge).

Find the center front and center back  of the basket and mark. Place the handle right sides together with the basket over those marks and sew (1/4” seam allowance).

Flip the basket so right sides are out including the handle.

Place the basket into the liner so the right sides are together. Attach seams to seams and pin or clip all the way around.

Sew ½” seam allowance all the way around the edge leaving a 3” opening just an inch off one of the handles. This will be the opening to flip right sides outs.

Flip right sides out through the opening.

Press the basket. Top stitch with a 3.0 stitch length and just off the edge (1/8” or so) around the top edge of the basket, closing the opening as well.

Now fill your homemade Easter basket with all sorts of goodies. I sew these fabric baskets for gifts, but they’re also great to use as homemade storage bins. You can add some machine embroidery to customize them. For the blue checkered basket, I embroidered the name on the top section. I also embroidered a sash to tie around the floral basket. Make these for all different occasions: I love sewing them for party favors, Mother’s Day gifts, and more. Use your imagination and take your homemade gift baskets to the next level of fun!

This article has been republished from Brother Sews USA.
The original article can be seen here: http://blog.brothersews.com/projects/sew-a-fabric-easter-basket/